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Car Stereo
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Here are some more information for Car Stereo:
The "Big 3" is a very easy mod to your car's electrical system that will help it maintain higher voltages for more power hungry amplifiers. If you've ever measured your voltage drop when playing music with the volume to the max with your engine running, you'll see that instead of reading 14.4v or 13.8 (depending on car), your voltmeter will read 13v, 12v, or even lower! You can easily tell if you're experiencing these voltage drops by watching your headlights. If they dim while playing your system, you most definitely have voltage drop going on. This voltage drop could potentially cause harm to your amp if it is significant enough. I had a Treo SSX 1500.1 blow because I was letting my voltage drop to about 9-10v, which the amp didn't like very much.
What causes this problem are the stock, small gauge wires used to connect various electrical components. The stock wire is usually 8 gauge, which is sufficient enough for roughly 50 amps. Large amplifiers can pull up and over 200-300amps, so now you see the problem.
When doing this mod, 3 runs of wire will need to be installed. They are:
- Battery positive (+) to alternator - From the positive terminal on your battery to the alternator positive (+) post
- Engine block to chassis ground - From engine block to chasis. This is to strengthen the ground.
- Battery ground (-) to chassis ground - From the negative terminal on your battery to your car's chassis.
I recommend using 1/0 gauge wire. You could use 4 gauge wire if that's all you have laying around, but you might as well use 1/0 the first time so you won't have to go back if you decide to upgrade your system later on down the road. The wire I used was Knu Konceptz 1/0 Kollosus Kable You will also need 1/0 ring terminals to terminate the ends of the wire.
Before you do anything, make sure to be safe. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of your battery before you begin. This makes an incomplete circuit and keeps you safe from sustaining electrical injuries.
First, measure a length of wire to go from your battery positive (+) terminal to your alternator. Make sure to leave a little bit of slack, around 6 inches, so you'll be able to position the cable freely. Terminate the ends of the cable with ring terminals, then connect the wire from battery positive (+) terminal to your alternator. There may be a plastic tab on the alternator post. If there is, go ahead and break it off; it's what I had to do. If you don't remove the plastic tab, you won't be able to remove the nut off of the terminal post.
Adding a fuse to go in between the battery positive (+) and the alternator is highly recommended, but not necessary. There is a small chance that the wire will come lose and short out, but it's a chance some people do not want to take. On the contrary, I have had no problems in the 2 years I've had the big 3 installed while running an unfused wire.
The next step is to run a wire from your engine block to your car's chassis. This step may be difficult because you may have a hard time finding a place on the engine block to attach your wire. Look for a non-essential bolt; do not use a bolt that holds fluids back.
From there, you then need to attach the other end of the wire to your chassis ground location. This ground can be anywhere on your car's chassis/frame, but make sure that you have metal-to-metal contact with the terminal and your ground location. A good start is to follow your stock ground wire back to its grounding location. If there is paint on the ground location you have chosen, you must sand it off until it is bare metal to ensure minimal electrical resistance.
Lastly, the final step is to run a wire from your battery's ground (-) terminal to the ground location on the chassis. Measure the wire and be sure to leave a little slack in case you need it. Then terminate the ends with ring terminals and attach one end to the negative terminal and the other to your grounding location on your chassis (as seen above).
Once you have made the new, beefier battery ground, you can cut off, disconnect, do whatever you want to the stock ground wire because it is not needed anymore. When you think you're finished, go ahead and double check all of your connections making sure that they are snug and tight.
That's it! The "Big 3" is now finished. You should notice a difference in voltage when playing your system at max volume. Before I did this upgrade, my voltage was at about 10v under heavy load. After doing the "Big 3" upgrade, my voltage under heavy load was stabilized at about 11v. Quite a large difference for how much you spent on the wire and terminals. That's why the "Big 3" is considered the first electrical upgrade you should do to ensure consistent power to your amplifiers.
Visit http://www.IsYouGeekedUp.com to see the full guide with pictures.
Pimp Up Yo' Ride! Why You Need A Good Car Stereo System
You've got a nice pearled paint job. You've got your 18' sized chrome mags. You've got an interior job that looks like a dream. But all of that would be superficial if you don't have a good car stereo system in your ride.
A good car stereo system is a marvel to experience, just like a poorly constructed car stereo system is such a pity to look at. The price is a big factor, but not all expensive hardware perform well if installed haphazardly, or if hooked up with incompatible hardware. It is also subjective, just as some of us find black cars more appealing than other color cars. If you like your car stereo system more than any other in the same vehicle, then you have the best.
If you like some other car stereo system more than yours in the same vehicle, then that one is better. Only you can decide which is best for you. For a car stereo system to be a good or great, it must first meet or exceed the user's expectations.
The type of vehicle also plays a major part in what kind car stereo system you should build. For some people, after only being in a few vehicles their ears recognize the inherent characteristics of this unique environment. Most of what we hear in a vehicle is a recording of the original artist in a given environment, usually in two channel stereo which can be playing in a totally different environment with the listeners placed in awkward listening positions relative to the placement of speakers. A great car stereo system is created with the understanding of acoustics, basic electronics, and the different products that are to be used.
A good idea is to gain references to compare to your auto audio system or any other and experience it live in as many different environments as possible. One of the best ways to accomplish this is to go to expos' and conventions. As you hop from exhibit to exhibit you'll immediately notice the difference in sound characteristics of each setup. You will find some car stereo systems that you prefer over others, if not a favorite and that is the way to choose a cheap car stereo system that you like. Also ask for specs, they'll gladly give it to you.
The benefits of aftermarket speakers are: they have a larger frequency response (more music coming through the car stereo speakers), more power handling capabilities, they will brighten your highs and increase your auto audio system bass. There are two types of car speakers available: the dual cone and the two way. A dual cone has a small paper cone built into a larger paper cone.
Amplifiers are the backbone of your car stereo system. Weak amplifiers damage good car stereo speakers, not the other way around. Amplifiers provides musical power and contributes greatly to the elimination of distortion and the upgrade of sound clarity. The size of the amplifiers will be proportionate to the level of power you want. You can tell a good power amp by turning the auto stereo system above half volume and still hearing clear amplification. Bear in mind that the more power you have the better control you have over your system.
A good car stereo system is something to show for. It can bring satisfaction to you, the owner, and to those who will witness it. It will also raise the quality and value of your car in case you wish to resell it.
About the Author
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Why is the back of my car stereo getting hot?
It is an old tape/am/fm stereo, and for some reason the back of the stereo is getting extremely hot. The fuses are fine, i rewired the ground to the frame of the car for a stronger connection.
The above two answers are wrong!
This is normal. Amplifiers get hot. Your stereo has an amp, all HU's do. The power transistors that feed the speakers are what's getting hot. They are fastened to a heat sink (the back of your radio) to dissipate heat better.
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mvprams
Umm...You have a lot to learn. So sit back and hush.
Car competition judges gearheads' creativity
View full size JOE HERMITT, The Patriot-News Peter Colello poses with his 2002 Toyota Celica at the Carlisle Performance and Style Car Show at the Carlisle Fairgrounds.
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