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Heat Shrinkable
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Have you ever ran across that half submerged treetop and thought if you could just get a line in there you would haul out a nice one or two? Sure you have. We all have and probably tried it with our conventional equipment with the end result being snagged and losing a lure. The same technique crappie anglers apply for brushy areas with a long telescopic pole that has only one eye on the end and no reel can be applied for bass in this situation with a few modifications.
Most of you know what type pole I am referring to. The long fiberglass type that telescopes out of the handle in 3 to 5 sections. Then telescopes back into the handle for storage. They have only one eye on the end and no reel seat. Virtually a high tech cane pole. Several companies market them and they can be found at your local tackle shop, fishing super store or on the Internet. An example is one marketed by B n M called the Black Widow which, depending on size, is from 10 to 30 dollars. They range in size from about 10 feet to 20 feet. I choose one in the 15 foot range and after modification it turns into a nice sized rig.
You will notice these rods are quite flimsy with not a lot of backbone on the tip. The solution here is to find a larger replacement rod tip. Usually they can be found in kit form at your local tackle shop, fishing super store or searching the Internet. Fuji makes a nice kit that comes with hot melt glue or you can use a stronger epoxy. Pick a tip that is close in size to one you would find on a heavy bass rod. Next cut the end of the telescopic pole down until the larger tip you chose fits nicely and glue it in place. For extra security I add heat shrink tubing or reinforced tape at the junction of the tip and rod. This modification will help stiffen the tip and give the pole more backbone.
For line I like a good braided line in the 40 to 50 pound test range. Braided line has less memory, stretch, abrasion resistance and a stronger size to weight ratio than monofilament. Diameter wise, 20 pound monofilament is roughly equivalent in size to 80 pound braided line. Start with 10 to 12 feet of line and tie it to the pole tip using your favorite knot that you use to tie line to hooks and lures. 10 to 12 feet of line is just a good starting point. You may want more or less depending on where your fishing. Strong line and knots are essential when you hook a fish because there is no time to play. You have to get the fish up and out of the brush as quickly as possible to avoid the fish from tangling your line.
Your lure should consist of one that is virtually snag free. I like a plastic worm, Texas Rigged and usually weightless, with a little twist in it's tail. Culprit's Original Worm in 7.5 inch is a good example. Floating frog type lures have worked for me in the past and that is a blast having a bass explode from the water that close. Experimentation with different lures is the key and try anything in which you have confidence.
Approach the submerged tree or brush with as much stealth as possible. If you can, keep the sun in your face to cast you and your boats shadow the opposite direction of the target area. Bass may be a top end predator in the water but they know a bigger predator when they see it. This technique doesn't just apply to fishing from a boat. I have had considerable luck from the shore on large lakes in small tree filled coves where boats can't get and small lakes and ponds where boats are not allowed.
Using this technique breaks the monotony of casting and adds an extra advantage in your arsenal of bass tackle. You may even run into a school of big slab crappie that dig what is being presented as a meal to them. Occasionally I catch a nice channel cat. Give it a try. The worst you could do is have some added fun.
At a young age Rodney Wilson caught his first bass on a Mann's Augertail Worm. This memory stuck in his mind so much he created a website http://www.lifelures.com/ solely dedicated to the legendary Mann's Augertail Worm. Please click on the link and stop in for a visit.
Frbiz.com Reports Shrink Packaging Film In The Food Industry
Food packaging machinery industry is a shrink packaging machinery where the largest market. Heat-shrinkable films are widely used in a variety of snack foods, lactic acid type of food, beverages, snack foods, beer, various wines, agricultural and sideline products, dried food, native products such as packaging. Used for various PET bottles of beer, beverage labels, can reduce the process to get rid of the label, to facilitate recycling; for bottled beer, an alternative bundles belay packaging, bottle of beer to prevent the injury caused by explosives.
Shrink film is a stretch in the production process has been directed, and in the process by the use of heat shrinkable thermoplastic film. Heat shrinkable film of early 1936 was applied, initially mainly used rubber film to shrink packaging of perishable food. Today, the heat shrink technology has been developed to almost plastic shrink film to wrap a variety of merchandise. In addition, shrink-wrapping is also used to produce shrink labels and shrink caps, so that is not easy to print or complex shape of the container can be labeled. Recently, there have been newer applications have been developed.
Production technology and characteristics of the production of shrink film commonly used extrusion blow molding or extrusion cast method to produce thick film, and then softening temperature above the melting temperature below the temperature of a high-elastic state under the vertical and horizontal stretching, or just a direction in which stretch orientation, while the other direction does not stretch, the former called the biaxial stretch shrink film, shrink film which is called a one-way. When used in more than stretching temperature, stretching temperature or close to the contractile force to be reliable and packaged goods bandage to live.
Shrink film materials used mainly for a variety of thermoplastic films. PVC heat shrinkable film initially dominated, with the continuous development of market demand, PVC heat shrinkable film gradually reduced, while all kinds of PE, PP, PET, PVDC, POF shrink film and other multi-layer co-extruded rapidly to become the market mainstream. At present, the domestic manufacturers shrink film plastic packaging alone Committee of China Packaging Federation, nearly 20, the output close to 8 million tons. Experts predict that within the next five years, the domestic film market will shrink more than 20% growth rate.
Shrink film packaging advantages: 1) pleasing in appearance, close to commodities, so called body-packing, suitable for a variety of different shapes of goods packaging; 2) the protection is good, if the shrink wrapped packaging inside the packaging with hanging on the combination of transport packaging, you can have a better good protection; 3) cleaning is good, especially for precision instruments, sophisticated electronic components packaging; 4) economic good; 5) anti-theft is good, a variety of foods can be shrink film with a big package together, to avoid loss; 6) The stability of goods in the packaging film will not collapse; 7) Transparency is good, customers can directly see the product contents.
In recent years, rapid development of heat shrinkable packaging film, with the ever-changing market demands, heat shrinkable film being a multi-level, functional direction, there have been many new technologies and new products. Multi-layer co-extruded composite heat shrinkable linear low density polyethylene film as intermediate layer co-extruded polypropylene as the inner and outer level, which is made by coextrusion, with the advantages of PE and PP is superior to a single layer of PE or PP film, is now widely used internationally heat shrinkable packaging material. Single-layer heat shrinkable film is widely available in a fast food pasta, multi-layer heat shrinkable film in fresh meat, fatty food packaging has also been widely used. Therefore, the heat shrinkable packaging film development trends in the food industry is getting better.
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Keeping the heat in and the cold out?
I need some suggestions on weather proofing my house. So far I have put the shrinkable plastic over my windows and put a rolled up rug at the bottom of the door to keep the wind out. Anyone have any other suggestions? I am probably getting some of that lining you put around the door frame so the door closes better, but I am looking for any other ideas. Thanks!!!
Oh I rent, its a 1br townhouse, in Delaware. So I can't replace anything, just make minor improvements.
You are losing more heat thru the ceiling. Attic insulation is one of the best investments you can make. If it's your home, do it. If you are a renter, you are stuck. After ceiling comes the windows and doors which you've covered, though weather stripping around the doors would help. That's the stuff you are considering doing next. Then wall insulation, but same story as ceiling. Final step would be floor insulation.
Check under sinks to see if there are holes where the pipes go thru the walls. Spray foam would seal these.
Come nonplastic window time, check the caulking around the windows and if if there's a window sealer that might tighen up your windows if they are double hung type. They get loose with age.
Heat Shrinkable Wire Markers withstand high temperatures.
Available in 4 colors and 9 diameters from 3/32-1.5 in., B-345 High Temperature PermaSleeve(TM) wire markers are made from irradiated PVDF and have shrink ratio of 2:1 or 3:1. Heat-shrink sleeves, which fit snugly around wires for optimal insulation protection and permanent identification, meet specifications for military standards and operate over -55 to +225°C range. Products suit high ...
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