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Heater Control
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Many construction contractors fail to account for the effect of ambient conditions on their project timelines and budgets. For instance, high relative humidity will cause materials and finishes such as concrete or plaster to cure much more slowly than expected - if at all. This is not good news as missing project milestones, idle time and expensive reworks can create significant financial and operational problems for a project manager who already has enough on his or her plate.
The good news is that these problems can be avoided at a fraction of the potential consequential cost of suffering humidity related delays. Using the correct dehumidifiers in these situations can really make a difference to the progress of any construction project. Indeed, I have helped many construction-related businesses to understand the value of spending a little of their project budget to improve quality and efficiency by creating favourable conditions that can keep project timelines on track and minimise costly reworking. Construction and civil engineering companies, flooring contractors, plasterers, painters and shopfitters have all benefitted from this advice on a variety of projects from house-building to major infrastructure jobs.
Unfortunately, many people in the construction and related industries do not fully understand the requirements and so waste money on ineffectual solutions. Equally unfortunate is the lack of understanding - and sometimes outright misdirection - prevalent among many equipment hire companies. Please allow me to explain.
Dehumidifiers generally fall into one of two catagories, i.e. refrigerant or dessicant units. Refrigerant dehumidifiers are the type typically marketed in a hire brochure as a 'builders dehumidifier' or 'building dryer'. These small units work on the same principle as the pipework found on the back of a household refrigerator. Warm humid air is drawn across a cold surface extracting moisture from the air in the form of condensation. This principle is reasonably effective so long as the air is warm. During winter months this process is much less efficient due to the cooler temperatures encountered on a construction site. It is at this point that an inexperienced, or ethically challenged, hire provider will suggest adding a heater to 'help things along'.
Usually a direct-fired propane or paraffin heater is added which actually introduces moisture into the area via the fumes from the burnt fuel. This additional moisture is then captured by the refrigerant dehumidifier and so gives the appearance of a more efficient solution. A dessicant dehumidifier on the other hand extracts moisture from the air via dessicant material and expels it from the area to be dried using ducting. The relative humidity in the area is reduced until it is lower than that outside and essentially turns the air into a sponge. The dried air creates an environment whereby the moisture is 'sucked' from the concrete, plaster etc. through the process of capillary action. Moist air is continuously expelled, and dry air introduced, until the required level of drying has been achieved. This is a much more efficient method of drying out walls, sub-floors etc. and its effectiveness will not be reduced by cold temperatures.
One common objection to using dessicant dehumidifiers is that they are more expensive to hire than the readily available refrigerant unit. While it is true that the weekly hire rate is higher, the dessicant unit is so much more effective that it will dry a significantly larger area more quickly and so be on hire for a much shorter period. Also, unlike the refrigerant unit it does not rely on fuel-hungry propane or paraffin heaters during colder months to make it [appear to] work. The moral of the story? Moisture control solutions can be used in a wide variety of applications to help construction site managers and foremen keep within project timescales and quality parameters - giving them a competitive edge in an increasingly competitive market.
Stephen Weekes is an equipment hire professional with over a decade of management and business development experience in the Northern Ireland plant and machinery sector.
Turn Your Water Heater Into a Drought Fighting Machine!
When you live in an area hit by drought, you want to conserve water in any way you can. Fortunately there is at least one way to fight a drought that actually makes your life easier, even adding convenience to your life. The concept is simple; stop running water down the drain while you wait for hot water to arrive.
How you might ask? Simple, use a hot water circulating system or a hot water demand system to provide you with fast hot water and to eliminate the running of water down the drain while you wait. A typical family of four can save over 15,000 gallons of water a year with a demand or circulating system.
Unlike most methods of saving water such as low flow toilets and low flow fixtures that create inconveniences for you, this method actually adds convenience to your life by reducing the amount of time you must wait. You feel good every time you use hot water because you realize you are doing your part to preserve our planets resources and to reduce the amount of green house gas being released into the atmosphere.
Hot water circulating systems that use a dedicated return line are the fastest way to get hot water, but they have a few problems. With such a system the outlet of the heater is piped to the first fixture, and from there to the next fixture, and the next etc. The piping forms a big loop, with a return pipe from the last fixture that runs back to the inlet of the water heater. The water is circulated through the piping by a pump which can run full time, can be controlled with a timer, or can be controlled by temperature. Typically the pump would turn on when the hot water dropped to 100 degrees, and off at 120 degrees.
If your home was not plumbed for a circulating system when it was built, then it will probably be very expensive to install such a system. Running new piping through an existing building is very difficult.
The aforementioned circulating systems waste a huge amount of energy keeping all of that hot water plumbing hot. The piping acts like a big radiator, radiating heat into the surroundings all the time that it is running. This not only costs more for the wasted energy, but makes the water heater work harder and puts more greenhouse gas into the atmosphere.
The circulating systems will not work with tankless water heaters. Since tankless heaters need a minimum amount of water flowing through them to turn them on, the circulating system would either force the heater to stay on all of the time, or it would not pump enough water to turn the heater on. Either way they don’t get along.
There is a new type of circulating system gaining popularity these days, known as a demand hot water system. The demand pump is located at the fixture furthest from the water heater, and connects to the hot and cold water lines. A demand system only pumps the water to the fixture when hot water is demanded by the user. The user pushes a button to activate the pump, which speeds the water to the fixture without running water down the drain. You get your hot water faster than normal and don’t wastefully run water down the drain while you wait.
There are some systems that use a pump at the furthest fixture like the demand systems, but they don’t require someone to activate them by pushing a button. They are temperature controlled, turning the pump on and off to keep the water temperature at the pump at about 95 degrees. This provides you with instant luke-warm water, and wastes almost as much energy as the full time circulating systems. It also keeps your cold water piping full of tepid water, which means you won’t get cold water at the cold water taps anymore without a long wait.
I prefer the demand systems because when the pump shuts off I have instant hot water, not luke-warm water, and when I want cold water it is there as well. There are a number of demand type systems on the market including the Chilipepper Appliance, Taco Demand Systems and Metlund D’mand Systems.
Tankless water heaters take longer because they don’t have a big tank of heated water ready to go…they must first heat the water, and then deliver it. So you have to add the time it takes to heat the water to the time it takes to deliver it.
If you are planning on using the system with a tankless water heater, then you should check with the manufacturer since most Metlund D’mand system models and most of the Taco models will not work with tankless water heaters. The pumps just are not powerful enough. The Chilipepper appliance has the most powerful motor of any demand system and will run any tankless water heater with no problem. In fact, a growing number of tankless water heater dealers are beginning to sell Chilipepper pumps as accessories to the heaters.
Hot water circulating and demand systems are typically easy to install and range in price from less than $200.00 to about $700.00.
Do your part to help protect the environment and conserve our natural resources; get faster hot water for your home today!
About the Author
For more information about demand hot water and circulating systems visit: Instant Hot Water
Mr. Lund also has a website for inventors’ which provides information about patents, protecting your ideas, prototyping online marketing and more: Help For Inventors
Lincoln Town Car 2000 air conditioner/heater control display?
I am having trouble figuring out how to remove/replace the digital air conditioning/heater control switch unit that is located below the radio. I'm not sure whether to remove the ash tray below the unit or if I have to remove another part of the dash. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
The trim panel around the EATC control head will snap out, just be care full to pull it straight out, unplug the wires for the information display reset switches from the trim panel and remove the panel. After that there a 4 screws that hold the EATC control head unit into the instrument panel, remove these 4 screws, slide the unit out and unplug the wires and you are good to go.
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