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Mounting Bracket
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 1968 CHEVROLET CHEVELLE SS DELCO RADIO DASH MOUNTING BRACKET 68 MALIBU  US $14.00
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 1959 1960 PONTIAC DELCO RADIO DASH MOUNTING BRACKET 59 60 BONNEVILLE CATALINA US $14.95
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An essential part of reviewing your fire extinguisher provision is the consideration of where to site them and how to fix them in place. Some appliances will come with a mounting bracket supplied, but for others you will need to purchase a fire extinguisher mounting bracket separately. It is beyond the scope of this article to get into how many fire extinguishers you should have for your workplace, or which type you need, so let us assume that you have your supply of the correct number and type of appliances and now you need to go about putting them where they need to be.
Mounting Fire Extinguishers - Where To Site Extinguishers
The first thing to say is that it is not an option to just leave a fire extinguisher standing on its own somewhere. It is unprotected, could be knocked over and damaged, or moved from its proper place leaving it unable to be found in an emergency. All fire extinguishers should be fixed in place using either a proper fire extinguisher mounting bracket, or a special stand or cabinet (more on all these later). It is a British Standard that all fire extinguishers are mounted on either a wall or a proper stand.
Fire extinguishers should always be sited on escape routes, in conspicuous places where they can easily be seen by people. If they need to be in a place where they cannot be seen directly, then appropriate signs must be used to highlight where they are. To help you decide where the best place to put extinguishers is, try to think through what would happen in the event of a fire. If you were escaping from a fire in your building, where would you want the fire extinguishers to be so that you can see them and get to them without deviating from your escape route. Their position should encourage people towards the exits rather than pull them back into the building.
It is also a useful guideline to site extinguishers next to call points, so that the alarm can be sounded before tackling the fire. For extinguishers which are being provided to cover specific risks, the extinguisher must be situated close to the risk. For example, a wet chemical fire extinguisher for a kitchen with a deep fat fryer. Bear in mind, however, that any such extinguisher must still be accessible if the risk happens. So in the above example, you would not put the extinguisher where you might not be able to get at it if the fat fryer did burst into flames.
It is a good rule of thumb to say you should not have to travel more than 30m from anywhere in your workplace to get to a fire extinguisher. Take care not to mount fire extinguishers in places where they may be exposed to heat. Most extinguishers will be marked with safe operating temperatures on them, so ensure they are kept within that range.
Types of Fire Extinguisher Mounting Bracket
Most fire extinguishers can be mounted against a wall using a fire extinguisher mounting bracket. The bracket should be fixed so as to result in the fire extinguisher handle being about 1m from the ground. An appropriate fire extinguisher identification sign should be mounted immediately above the appliance. These indicate the type of fire extinguisher and highlight its location.
Some fire extinguishers can be very heavy, so you need a solid wall to fix the bracket to, and fixings which are appropriate for something which is going to take a lot of weight. If you are in doubt about the ability of the wall to withstand such a load, it would be better to use a stand instead (see below).
The main types of fire extinguisher mounting brackets available are Lug Brackets, J Brackets and Shoulder Brackets. J brackets get their name from the fact that the letter J describes their shape. They are suitable for most types of fire extinguisher where the extinguisher's bracket is at the back or the side of the appliance. Shoulder Brackets are so called because they are for fire extinguishers where the bracket is attached at the shoulder (the curved bit between the side and the top). Lug Brackets have a small arm coming out from the wall, with a small metal lug sticking up. These are for locating fire extinguishers with a corresponding fitting with a hole that fits on top of the lug.
There are other more specialist types of brackets available, such as the transport bracket, which has a retaining strap to hold the appliance in environments that move around, such as goods vehicles.
Mounting Fire Extinguishers - Cabinets and stands
There are certain situations where a fire extinguisher is required, but it cannot be fixed to a wall. This may be because the wall is not suitable, or even that there is no wall at all in the place where the extinguisher needs to be. In these situations a fire extinguisher cabinet or stand should be used. As mentioned earlier, it is not acceptable just to leave an appliance somewhere without being either attached to a wall or on a stand.
The option of a stand or cabinet may be the solution if the fire extinguisher needs to be situated next to cavity walls, plasterboard, glass, etc. Such stands are free standing and require no fixing at all. They simply stand on their own, and provide a secure position for the extinguisher. They are typically available to hold a single extinguisher or two extinguishers. Cabinets are available for environments where greater protection is required. These are often used in places such as workshops and petrol stations.
Mounting Fire Extinguishers - Conclusions
Mounting fire extinguisher is a relatively straightforward business, provided you understand the main principles. The main points to remember are to select conspicuous locations on escape routes to site the extinguishers, then adopt the most appropriate method for mounting them, based on that particular environment. If brackets are supplied with your appliances then you can't go far wrong, and if not, just ensure you check the type of bracket that each of your extinguishers is going to require.
K Garrow has managed large public buildings for the last twenty years and has extensive experience of health and safety matters as they apply to the workplace. His website provides free advice on carrying out your own Fire Risk Assessment as well as information on many other safety related matters.
His financial management experience is put to use in his other website, which offers free guidance on debt cures, and how to get out of debt without borrowing or spending more money.
How to Mount a Flat Screen TV
So you have just dropped a couple thousand dollars on a sexy new flat panel TV, now it’s time to complete the job by taking advantage of it. When mounting a flat panel TV, be sure you have:
- Stud Finder
- Measuring Tape
- Power Drill
- Screwdriver
- Level
- Pencil
- The Bracket
1) Selecting the right Mounting Bracket:
Most flat screen TVs do not come with a mounting bracket. Depending on the size of your TV, these brackets can run you for around $50-$500. If you are shopping for a TV and would like it to be mounted, be sure to keep the extra cost of the mount in mind. If you already purchased a TV, check the manual to see which types of brackets are compatable with your specific TV. Most flat screens will fit in a wide variety of mounts, but certain TVs require specific types of mounts.
Check your owner’s manual or TV box for the words VESA Compatible. VESA stands for Video Electrionics Standards Association, and is the organization that formulates standards for flat-screen mounting brackets (among other things). “VESA” will be followed by a number or combination of numbers that will indicate what type of VESA standard your TV is set up for (i.e VESA 50/75/100). Make sure to get a mounting bracket that matches the exact number on your TV!
Also, be sure to keep an eye out for how much weight the bracket can hold (and know how much your TV weighs)
Types of Wall Mounts:
- Flat: the cheapest, most common, and least versatile. This mount makes the TV look like a picture hanging on the wall (see above picture)
- Tilting: these mounts allow the TV to be tilted up or down about 15-20 degrees. This is the best type of mount for a TV that is higher up on the wall, and makes the TV stick out a few inches
- Articulating: the most versatile of the mounts. They allow the consumer to tilt, rotate, or swivel their TV to their liking
2) Find the Studs:
It is vital to find the studs in the wall and drill directly into them to ensure that the mount (and TV) will be safe and secure hanging on the wall. A stud is a piece of wood that serves as the interior fram of the wall. Because they are so solid and sturdy, they are the perfect candidate to trust when it comes to putting your TVs life on the line.
- Run the stud finder over the wall until you see a light or beep (or both), indicating the location of the stud
- Mark an “X” with a pencil to remember exactly where each stud is, which is where you will drill your holes
- As a general rule, for an LCD (they are lighter) use at least 1 stud, and at least 2 studs for a plasma
3) Attatching the Mount:
After you have decided on a good location and height for the TV, it is time to install the mount. In most cases, there are two parts to a wall mount – one that attaches to the TV and one that attaches to the wall.
TV Mount:
- The TV portion of the mounting bracket usually consists of two vertical rails that are attached to the back of the display
- The place where the rails attach to the TV are often covered up by plastic caps, so you’ll have to find them and remove the caps before you attach the rails
- If you’re going to lay the TV face down while you attach the rails, make sure that it is laying on a soft surface – otherwise you can damage your TV
- Most mounting brackets will come with special screws and washers that you can use to attach the rails to the television (using your screwdriver)
Wall Mount:
- Hold the wall mount flush against the wall at the height (and in the location) that you want the television to be
- Move the wall mount horizontally until its holes are positioned over the wall studs that you’ve previously identified. If you’re only going to be using one stud, make sure that it falls in the center of the mounting bracket
- Take your Level, and hold it up against the mounting bracket to make sure that it is perfectly level
- Use a pencil to make a clear mark in the spots where you will be drilling your holes
- Take your drill and make small pilot holes on the marks where you want your anchoring bolts to go
- Secure the mounting bracket by screwing the bolts into place with a wrench or screwdriver
- Test the mounting bracket to make sure that it is securely fastened and that it doesn’t wiggle either way
4) Mount the TV:
Now that everything is in place, it is time to attach the TV to the mount on the wall. This may seem pretty straightforward, but keep these things in mind:
- Flat screen televisions are often heavy (depending on the size) and can be tough to lift on your own. It’s always smart to get someone to help you lift the TV and attach it to the wall mount – especially if you need to help guide the rails onto the mounting bracket
- It’s usually a good idea to attach all of the cables on the TV beforehand – that way you won’t have to poke around the back of the TV blindly after it’s already attached to the wall
- A lot of people cover up the cords with wood, which is then painted the color of the wall. Some also feed the cords through the back of the wall, which can be quite difficult and time consuming
- Make sure that any safety locks or tabs on the mounting bracket are fully secure and functioning
- If you’re using a Tilting or Articulating wall mount, you can go ahead and adjust it further to the correct viewing angle
- If you are uneasy about setting the TV up yourself, it might be a good idea to have it professionally installed
About the Author
For more information on this and other TV topics, please take a moment to visit my website www.besttvreview.com
What kind of metal mounting bracket would you use on a wooden baseball outfield backstop?
Specifically, I’m looking for the kind that holds the plywood mounted on a 2x4 with bolts to metal post. The bracket (or whatever you call it) would wrap around the back of the metal post and secure the backstop wall with bolts of some sort. Someone in construction or fencing might know this one.
You can use Galvanized strap steel available at any hardware store. The Galvanized coating protects the steel from rusting. Aluminum would be better, although a bit more expensive, it will never rust. The coated steel will eventually rust.
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