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Plug Pigtail
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Wiring can be a frightening concept for many people. Basic wiring systems on trailers are actually very simple.
Many auto parts stores now carry a plug and go connector for most popular makes of towing vehicles. For those who feel adventurous, this article will describe the "old fashioned" way to wire a trailer hitch.
First, decide what kind of plug you will be using. If your trailer comes with a plug, you will need to match it. If not, the most common plug used is a flat plastic plug with 3 round type plug female holes and one male prong. The mating plug would have 3 round prongs and one female round type receptacle. The one different style pole on each plug will be the ground. Turn on your parking lights on your truck.
Find the bundle of wires located at the back of your truck just inside the frame and body. Using a circuit tester, locate the wire that is "hot" with the lights on. With a pigtail connector, connect a piece of wire long enough to reach the location of your trailer connection, after you have turned off the lights. That wire connects to the female receptacle, which is most commonly in the receptacle next to the ground connector. You can test before permanently connecting by touching the trailer connectors one at a time until you find the one that causes the tail lights to light.
Next, turn on one of your blinkers and find the wire that flashes your tester. Connect a pigtail in the same manner and test on the trailer to find the connecting pin that makes the proper blinker on the trailer operate with the truck. Now, find the other turn signal wire in the same manner.
Bond Mejeh produces automotive related articles for Quick Cash Auto, a cash for cars service. Quick Cash Auto not only buys pre-owned vehicles of any year, make or model, but they also provide numerous articles about vehicle repair and automotive news.
Please visit http://www.QuickCashAuto.com for more information and be sure to check out our automotive blog.
Electrical Cords & Plugs: A Repairing Guide
All the appliances we use in our daily life has some type of electrical plugs that connects the appliances to the electrical sources that is sockets to supply electricity. It is the plug that connects the appliance's wires to the electricity source. But when the electrical plugs or cords are damaged, it can be extremely dangerous. A damaged plug can cause spark or smoke causing fires.
If the plugs or cords are sparking, just unplug the appliance and cut the power to be safe and secure because it can cause fire leading to health and wealth hazards. After unplugging wait for some time and let the plug cool for some time. Then check the plug, cord and outlet to see if they are damaged. If as such then take it to the servicing center or replace with a new one.
Replace the plugs if :
* If an electrical plug is cracked it should be immediately replaced.
* If the plug is discolored it should not be used further.
* If the electrical plug becomes warm when the appliance is on, it means it is not functioning properly and it is the right time to replace it.
* Replace the plug if it has badly bent contacts.
What make the cords and plugs non-functioning?
Heavy usage and age are the two main reasons that take their toll on consumer appliances specially on cords and plugs. Appliances you use most frequently are the common victims, such as irons, blow dryers, toasters, lamps, and refrigerators. Apart from that the vintage model appliances also wear out early.
Choose the right type of plug for appliances
Now if you have planned to buy a new cord for an appliance, it is of utmost importance to get the proper type for the appliance. We will discuss here three basic type of electrical plugs:
Terminal-screw Plugs: In these plugs, the wires attach to screws inside the cord body. These plugs are usually found on older appliances. Often they have a removable insulating disk covering the terminals and wires. Newer plugs have rigid insulating barriers.
Self-connecting Plugs: Small appliances like lamps mainly use self-connecting plugs. The prongs clamp onto the wires of the cord, and an automatic connection is made.
Three-prong Plugs: These plugs come with larger appliances like refrigerators, washers, dryers, and power tools. They have a prong that grounds the appliances.
Replacing 240-volt Plugs
Replacing electrical cords and plugs on a 240-volt appliances such as a dryer or other large appliance needs special attention. You need to purchase a pigtail cord with a plug molded to it. If the appliance or the pigtail cord is not color-coded, in that case first attach the central wire of the pigtail to the center terminal screw on the appliance. Afterwards connect the remaining wires to the other terminal screws.
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I am a product analyst for b2b industry. My core profile is to understand industry, develop information architecture and plan the product. Developed many B2b verticals. My core interest is research and analyse industry trends, latest updates in market, industry product information. Based on my experience i have studied harwdare product industry and my interest is to share that information and develop network for harwdare industry so that business manufaturers, suppliers, traders can benefit from this resource.
wiring question?
Do u hook green wires to green screws on new plugs wen ur using PLASTIC boxes?
IM putting 4 plugs across my kitchen counter top--coming off a gfci plug-20amp-new service drop--rewiring some of my house--but im using plastic boxes so do u jus wirenut the grounds or pigtail em n hook up 2 all green screws on plugs---tyvm
The NEC does not require a GFCI to be on its own circuit. Why else would it have feed through lugs. It is perfectly acceptable to have one GFCI and feed receptacles downstream of it and have them be GFCI protected.
For dwellings (houses, hotels, condos etc) the NEC does NOT address the number of receptacles per circuit. For other establishments the NEC requires you to calculate at 180 VA (volt-amps) per receptacle no matter if their is one or 2 receptacles on one yoke. For dwellings the receptacle load is included with the general lighting load calculations. So for a dwelling unit you can put 5 or 25 receptacles on one circuit and still be 100% code legal. This is because a dwelling isn't going to load a receptacle circuit nearly as much as another establishment would. I almost guarantee you can run your entire homes general purpose 120V loads on one or possibly two circuits!
Using the 180VA guideline for nondwelling units with general purpose (noncontinuous loaded) receptacles you can put 13 receptacles on a 20A circuit and 10 receptacles on a 15A circuit.
There are many types of plastic boxes. Most that I know of are meant for permanent installation. Why else would manufacturers make an "old work" box with the flip up ears for installation if you had to remove it later.
madmarl329 the NEC is right at 711 pages and you need to get in them deep. There wasn't a bit of fact in your answer!
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