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Speaker Enclosure
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97-04 PORSCHE BOXSTER 911 LEFT DRIVER DOOR SPEAKER BOX ENCLOSURE 996 645 011 01 US $50.03
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97-04 PORSCHE BOXSTER 911 RIGHT DRIVER DOOR SPEAKER BOX ENCLOSURE 996 645 012 01 US $50.03
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Office buildings, airports and restaurants were the first homes of ceiling speakers. They can be easily recognized by the dense grilles that pour decibels right into your head.
But why would someone want ceiling or in wall speakers, instead of a pair of normal, efficient and highly affordable speaker cabinets. There could be a few reasons:
- Saving some space in the room;
- Maintaining the aesthetics of the room;
- Hiding the wires;
- Getting rid of the holes in the walls.
In the past, there weren't many fans of wall or ceiling-mounted speakers. While there are still people that think plenum-mount technology is just a whim, on the other side it is this technology in particular that gains more and more advocates. This is probably due to a change in life styles. People want the environment adapted to their needs, not the other way around.
There's one sure thing with in-wall and ceiling speakers: they are not for those who are into high-end audio. You could hardly find an audiophile willing to trade the deep bass that he or she loves so much for a bit of extra shelf space.
But even if not an audiophile, you'll need to pay attention to the following parameters:
- Frequency response - gives you the range of the audible spectrum that the speakers can reproduce; the human ear can hear 20 Hz to 20 MHz, thus the more a speaker approaches this interval, the better.
- Power handling - specifies the ranges of power the speakers can safely receive from the amplifier (e.g. 20-100 watts);
- Efficiency - also called sensitivity, this rating indicates how effectively the speaker uses the power sent to it by the amplifier.
A key aspect in having in-wall or in-ceiling speakers is how you capture the back wave. You can't always know what happens behind that wall, how big the hole really is, or if it's sealed. The answer is to use sealed speakers, no matter their location. Otherwise you'll have a lot of rear acoustic energy wasted into the back-wall and a distorted, uneven sound.
Mounting the speakers
Usually it is a lot easier to mount ceiling speakers than in-wall speakers, at least where there is a fake ceiling. Mounting in-wall speakers is more of an architectural problem. That's probably why these are also called "architectural speakers". People don't like to have small rooms, thin walls, and wires bursting from one room to another.
The easiest alternative is to project the audio system before even having the walls built up. The advantage is freedom to plan things (speakers among others) exactly how you want them. Figuring out the wires is the part you should do before building the walls. Some planning is needed ahead: talking to an electrician, finding out how much wire you need, seeing what kind of wire you can actually use (UL-rated wire is approved for use in walls in all 50 states). Also, seeing the layout of your lighting system, and how it would interfere with that of the speakers.
Inserting the speakers can be done on the run, as the wall is being raised. Some people successfully use the drywall as a speaker's enclosure. The key is to have the speakers in the right place from the start. This would save you time, money and nerves.
Installing the speakers in an existing wall or ceiling is a bit more difficult and pricey. But it can be done. At first, find out what's behind the walls you want the speakers mounted in and see if you can drill. You need to make some holes into the desired spots, and build the speaker-enclosures.
Ceiling speakers have a drawback: the location. we're not used to having the sound come down at us from the ceiling, but from our side. The sensation of the sound-waves reaching the head and then the ears, is a bit strange. Some ceiling speakers are flexible within a given degree, so they can be pointed towards the listener. They are round-shaped in order to match the bulbs and lamps that also found their site on the ceiling.
Niles, SpeakerCraft, and others use directional tweeters and woofers that can be separately adjusted to compensate for imaging problems arising from the positioning drawbacks.
Most in wall speakers have paintable grilles, so you can perfectly black them out.
Above all, my biggest dilemma is what to do if my trendy, camouflage speaker, be it in-wall or in-ceiling, breaks down? Most users say I don't need to worry as they can be taken out, repaired or even replaced. There's also absolutely no need to worry if I want to add some speakers to my system, they say. One solution would be to think ahead and stuff the wall with more wire for later add-ons. Still, I find this unnecessary hassle. But for the sake of interior design logic, it may be worth it.
Learn how wireless speakers and headphones work, read product reviews and find out shopping tips and tricks at http://www.Wireless-Speakers.org.
Building A Speaker Box
First of all, one has to know that installing any kind of car electronics is certainly not a picnic. Fixing all the electronics and cables where they are not intended to go in has many unique challenges for even the expert installers. To build custom speaker enclosures can be a very creative part of the task. Car stereo fans really love to install a box. The sound of the deep and smooth bass is hard tough job inside of cars environment.
Two types of boxes can be considered, the sealed box and the vented box. The sealed box is nothing but an airtight enclosure whose purpose is to enhance the performance of the speaker. The vented box is also known as bass-reflex or ported systems, they are more complex to install but their performance jump is valuable. Vented boxes channel sound to the front and rear on the cone. They also have a better bass sound. The instructions explained are for a sealed box. Much more detailed instructions available online for both vented box and sealed box. Whichever one decides will improve the sound quality in the car significantly. Following is a step by step procedure for completing the task.
Step One:
First, the dimensions of the box have to be determined in which the speakers will be placed. Several pieces of wood about half inch thick are needed for the walls and the top of the speaker box. All the materials and tools needed should be laid out.
Step Two:
For building the enclosures needed, a circular has to be taken and shapes have to be cut out. Its rough edges have to be trimmed and sanded well. Liquid nails have to be used when foaming the enclosure between the connections for creating a powerful bond. A port for sound might also be needed to install for the sound to spread better. The wires have to be now installed for connecting speakers to the stereo.
Step Three:
Now when the wiring has been done and the boxes sealed tightly, the speakers can be installed. The wires have to be carefully soldered because the vehicle's vibration will affect them. A set of screws should be obtained with the speakers which are available at any hardware store. Finally, the order of the band pass should be determined as this will determine the amps and capacitor derivatives.
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Also learn how to build a speaker box and how to build a swing set
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where can i find a 6"x9", empty, speaker enclosure (can) for mounting my speakers on my wakeboard tower?
I already own the 6x9's i want but, i cant find a place anywhere that sells empty speaker enclosures for mounting my 6x9 speakers on my wakeboard tower on my boat, pleaseeeeee HELPPPP!
Try Ebay - they'll have one somewhere!
Or these websites may help:
http://www.wakeside.com/page/w/CTGY/wakeboard_tower_speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Jjbm83DuOUA/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=228350
http://uk.best-price.com/procSystem,showProductSearchByUserSearch,,0,Wakeboard+Tower+Speakers.html
Lorna
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